Toumba Stadium away guide

Fly into Thessaloniki Airport (Makedonia, SKG), which has direct flights from both Manchester and London, so no hub change is needed. From the airport take bus 78 into the centre, around 45 to 60 minutes, then bus 12 to the 'Gipedo PAOK' stop. Away fans sit in the south-west corner next to the main stand, opposite the Curva Nord.

Fast facts

Getting there from the UK

Thessaloniki is one of the easier Greek away days to reach: it has direct flights from both Manchester and London, so on most dates there is no need to fly to a hub and connect. The real choice is which airport and carrier, plus a connecting fallback for dates when no direct runs (direct SKG flights thin out midweek and off-season, when Champions League ties fall). All costs and times below are estimates and vary with dates and demand.

Getting there from the airport (SKG)

There is no direct airport bus to the ground, so plan on two legs. Thessaloniki Airport is linked to the centre by public bus 78 in the day and 78N at night (23:30 to 05:30). The route runs from the airport to the Central Railway Station and on to the Macedonia (KTEL) intercity bus station, passing through the centre, and many visitors get off near Aristotelous Square. Bus 78 runs regularly through the day and takes roughly 45 to 60 minutes depending on traffic. Buy a standard single ticket (around 2 euro; check the current fare) and the stop is just outside the terminal. A taxi from the airport to the centre is quicker and useful if you land late.

From the city centre and railway station to Toumba

The most useful service is bus line 12, which connects the railway station and the centre with the ground. Board it at Aristotelous Square or the White Tower and get off at the 'Gipedo PAOK' (PAOK stadium) stop.

Toumba sits in the south-east of the city, about 3 km from the White Tower and 3.5 km from Aristotelous Square. As an alternative, bus line 14 runs along Egnatia Avenue: alight at Agia Varvara and walk in from there. A taxi from the centre is short and cheap, but there is no stadium car park and street parking nearby is very difficult, so drivers often park in Pylaia or Triandria and taxi in.

Metro and walking

The metro gets you close but not to the door. Thessaloniki's Line 1 metro opened on 30 November 2024, and Papafi, in the Toumba district, is the closest station to the ground. Papafi station is roughly a 15 to 20 minute walk from the stadium, so combine it with a short walk or bus 12 for the last leg. Journey planners also list University/Panepistimio as another walkable option, around a 19-minute walk.

Where to stay

Base yourself in the centre, between the White Tower, Aristotelous Square and Ladadika. It puts you on the bus 12 route to the ground, close to the bars and restaurants, and within easy reach of both the railway station and the airport bus. Ano Poli (the Upper Town) is charming but hilly and further from the transport spine, so better for a leisurely stay than a quick matchday turnaround.

Inside the stadium and allocation

Visiting supporters are housed in the south-west corner of the stadium, in the seating next to the main stand, directly opposite the Curva Nord where PAOK's Gate 4 ultras gather. Toumba is a single-tier, steep-sided bowl divided into numbered gates; away fans enter at the opposite south-west corner rather than through the home gates.

PAOK does not publish a fixed away number. For UEFA ties the allocation is typically about 5% of capacity, and for high-risk or derby fixtures away allocations are often heavily restricted or banned entirely. Tickets can be bought online (print-at-home), from Germanos stores, at Piraeus Bank ATMs, and from the Toumba ticket booths on matchdays, so sort collection before you travel. Guides advise arriving with the organised away support rather than in small isolated groups, and to expect a strict police presence. Toumba is one of Europe's most intense grounds, nicknamed the 'Cathedral' and 'the Black Hell', and Greek police take a zero-tolerance line on disobeying instructions, so follow steward and police directions closely. Alcohol is not sold inside Greek league grounds, and expect standard security searches, so travel light.

Where to drink

Do your drinking in the centre before heading out to Toumba; the area right around the ground is residential with little for visitors. As always on an away day, keep colours low-key away from your own group.

• Ladadika: the old warehouse district near the port, restored Ottoman-era buildings full of tavernas and bars, the most atmospheric and relaxed area to start.
• Valaoritou: a rawer, edgier grid of bars, clubs and live music, busy and late, good for a younger crowd.
• Zythos, Ladadika: a well-known taverna with a long beer list and good meze, reliable for a sit-down pint and a bite.
• Elvis Bar, Ladadika: retro rock 'n' roll spot in the heart of Ladadika, lively and affordable.
• La Doze, Valaoritou: alternative cocktail bar with rotating DJs, warehouse feel, gets going late.
• Aristotelous Square and Agias Sofias Street: the more upscale, central option for an easy pre-match drink on the transport spine.

Beer runs around 3 to 5 euro a bottle, house wine 4 to 6 euro, and cocktails 8 to 12 euro. Avoid drinking near the ground itself, keep away from the Gate 4 end, and give the immediate area around Curva Nord a wide berth on matchday.

Where to eat

Thessaloniki is regarded as Greece's food capital, so eat well. Try bougatsa (a flaky filo pie, sweet with semolina custard or savoury with cheese or mince), souvlaki and gyros, and bougiourdi (baked feta with tomato and peppers).

• Bougatsa Bantis: a small bakery working from a grandfather's recipes, the classic morning stop for bougatsa.
• Bougatsa Giannis: another long-standing favourite for the city's signature pie, quick and cheap.
• Souvlaki and gyros counters around Aristotelous and the centre: the local fast food, pork or chicken in a pita with tzatziki, tomato, onion and chips, a few euro and filling.
• Sempriko: near the western Byzantine walls, modern Greek cooking, smoked aubergine with tahini, manti dumplings and good risottos, a proper sit-down meal.
• Argofageio: tiny, nine tables, a handwritten menu that changes daily, book ahead.
• To Dixtu: simple, fresh fish grilled or fried, for a seafood night by the water.

What to do

Thessaloniki rewards a day or two either side of the game. Most of the big sights sit along the waterfront and the centre, all walkable.

• White Tower: the city's symbol on the seafront, climb it for views over the Thermaic Gulf; entry around 8 euro, or a 15 euro combined ticket covers the Rotunda and museums.
• Rotunda: a 4th-century Roman monument turned church then mosque, a UNESCO site with striking early Christian mosaics.
• Arch of Galerius (Kamara): a Roman triumphal arch in a busy pedestrian area, its carved reliefs still sharp.
• Ano Poli (Upper Town): cobbled lanes that survived the 1917 fire, topped by the Heptapyrgion (Yedi Kule) fortress, with the best views in the city.
• Aristotelous Square: the grand seafront square at the heart of the centre, good for a coffee and people-watching.
• Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki: the region's headline collection, including finds from the Macedonian kingdoms.
• The waterfront promenade (Nea Paralia): a long, easy walk from the White Tower past the Umbrellas sculpture, best at sunset.

Common questions

How do you get to the stadium from Thessaloniki Airport?

There is no direct bus to the ground. Take bus 78 (or 78N at night) into the centre or to the railway station, around 45 to 60 minutes, then change to bus 12 to the 'Gipedo PAOK' stop or the metro to Papafi. A taxi is quicker if you land late.

Which airport do you fly to, and is there a direct flight?

Fly to Thessaloniki Airport (Makedonia, SKG). Unlike many Greek away days, this one needs no hub change: Manchester flies direct with Jet2 and easyJet, and London flies direct with British Airways from Heathrow, Ryanair from Stansted and easyJet from Gatwick. Flight time is about 3 hours 20 to 3 hours 40.

Where do away fans sit at Toumba?

In the south-west corner next to the main stand, directly opposite the Curva Nord (Gate 4) where PAOK's ultras gather. Away fans enter at that corner rather than through the home gates. It is a single-tier, steep-sided bowl, so the atmosphere is loud and close from all sides.

What is the away allocation?

PAOK does not publish a fixed number. For UEFA ties the allocation is typically about 5% of capacity (Toumba holds 28,703), which points to a few hundred to just over a thousand seats. For high-risk or derby fixtures, away allocations are often heavily restricted or banned entirely, so confirm with your club's away-travel briefing.

What time should you arrive at the ground?

Give yourself plenty of margin. Buses on matchday are busy, there is a strict police presence and searches, and away fans are usually asked to arrive together and early. Aim to be at the away corner at least an hour before kick-off, and travel out from the centre well before that.

Can you drink inside the stadium?

No. Alcohol is not sold inside Greek league grounds, so do your drinking in the centre beforehand. Expect standard security searches on the way in, so travel light and do not try to bring drink with you.

How much is a beer?

Reckon on around 3 to 5 euro for a bottle of beer, 4 to 6 euro for house wine and 8 to 12 euro for a cocktail in the central bars. Ladadika and the everyday tavernas sit at the cheaper end; the polished cocktail bars around Valaoritou and Agias Sofias run higher.

Is Thessaloniki safe for away fans?

The city itself is a normal, welcoming place, and the day is fine if you stay sensible. The caution is football-specific: Toumba is an intense ground with fierce ultras and a zero-tolerance policing line. Keep colours low-key outside your own group, travel with the organised support, follow steward and police instructions, and avoid the Gate 4 end.

Which areas are best for away fans to drink and eat?

Base yourself in the centre. Ladadika is the most relaxed, atmospheric spot for tavernas and bars, Valaoritou is livelier and later, and Aristotelous Square is the easy central option. All sit on or near the bus 12 route out to the ground. Avoid drinking around Toumba itself.

Does the match ticket give free public transport?

No. There is no combined ticket-and-travel scheme in Thessaloniki, so buy a separate bus ticket (around 2 euro; check the current fare). Buy before boarding where you can and keep it validated for the journey.

How far is Toumba from the city centre?

About 3 km from the White Tower and 3.5 km from Aristotelous Square, in the south-east of the city. That is bus 12 to the 'Gipedo PAOK' stop, the metro to Papafi and a 15 to 20 minute walk, or a short and cheap taxi.

Where should you stay?

Stay central, between the White Tower, Aristotelous Square and Ladadika. It puts you on the bus 12 route to the ground, among the bars and restaurants, and within reach of the railway station and airport bus. Ano Poli is prettier but hilly and further out, better for a slower stay than a quick matchday turnaround.

Can you drive and park at the stadium?

No. There is no on-site parking and street parking nearby is very difficult. Drivers often park in Pylaia or Triandria and taxi in. Public transport, taxi or the walk from Papafi metro is the sensible matchday choice.