Getting to Thessaloniki for the football

Fly direct from Manchester or London to Thessaloniki "Makedonia" Airport (SKG), 13 km southeast of the city, then take the 2.00 euro airport bus into the centre (FlightsFrom, OSETH). Away fans at PAOK's Toumba Stadium sit in the southwest corner; European ties get a UEFA away allocation, usually reached on escorted buses from Aristotelous Square (Football Ground Guide, Hearts FC).

Fast facts

Getting there from the UK

Thessaloniki has its own airport with UK direct flights, so most fans fly straight in and take the airport bus. The catch on a midweek European night is that the direct services cluster by season and by day, so if none lines up with your date the real alternative is a low-cost flight to Athens and a short domestic hop up to SKG. All routes finish the same way: airport bus 01X into the centre (2.00 euro), then Bus 12 to "Gipedo PAOK" or Bus 14 to "Agia Varvara" for Toumba. Costs are estimates and swing with season and how early you book.

Getting into Thessaloniki

You fly into Thessaloniki Airport "Makedonia" (IATA code SKG), about 13 km (8 miles) southeast of the city in Thermi. It is Greece's third-busiest airport after Athens and Heraklion (Wikipedia).

From the airport, the airport bus Line 01X runs to the city centre, the New Railway Station and the KTEL Makedonia intercity bus terminal. The stop is in the Arrivals area of Terminal 1 (SKG Airport). The fare is the "Special Routes" ticket at 2.00 euros regular (1.00 reduced), which covers the airport lines 01X and 02X for 70 minutes (OSETH).

For late arrivals, the night line 01N follows the same airport-to-centre route with more intermediate stops and runs overnight when the daytime 01X is not operating (SKG Airport). Line 02X links the airport to the Nea Elvetia metro transfer station, so you can change onto the metro for the city centre (SKG Airport).

If you arrive by rail, trains come into Thessaloniki's New Railway Station at 28 Monastiriou Street, roughly 2 km northwest of the centre. It is served by numerous city buses and by metro Line 1, which terminates there (Wikipedia).

Getting out to Toumba Stadium

Toumba Stadium is southeast of the centre, roughly 3 km from the White Tower, in a dense residential neighbourhood, so use public transport or a taxi rather than driving (Stadium Guide).

Bus 12 runs from Aristotelous Square and the White Tower; get off at the "Gipedo PAOK" (PAOK Stadium) stop (Stadium Guide). Bus 14 runs along Egnatias Avenue; get off at "Agia Varvara" for the ground (Stadium Guide). The metro, which opened in November 2024, does not reach Toumba, so it is buses or a taxi for the last leg (Greek City Times).

There is no stadium car park and parking around the ground is very difficult on match days. One option is to park in nearby Pylaia or Triandria and take a taxi in (Football Ground Guide).

For an organised away trip, expect a police-escorted arrangement. For the Hearts fixture, visiting fans gathered at Aristotelous Square, were escorted to the White Tower and bussed to the stadium, entering via gate 8 in the away section, with photo ID matching the ticket required and bag searches at the turnstiles (Hearts FC).

Getting around the city

The Thessaloniki Metro opened on 30 November 2024 with 13 stations. Line 1 runs from the New Railway Station through the city centre, giving a fast north-south spine (Protothema). A single metro ride is 0.60 euros, with a 10+1 ticket bundle at 5.80 euros (Greek City Times).

On the buses, a standard 70-minute urban ticket is 0.60 euros (0.30 reduced) and a 24-hour bus day pass is 2.50 euros (OSETH). Much of the centre, from the port through Ladadika to the White Tower, is walkable, so many fans get around on foot and only use transport for the ground.

Where to stay

Ladadika, the restored warehouse district near the port, is the main eating, drinking and nightlife area and a practical, well-connected base (Adventourely). Aristotelous Square is the natural central meeting point, and doubles as the muster point for escorted away travel to the stadium (Hearts FC). Basing yourself between the two puts the bars, the waterfront and the airport bus all within reach. Toumba itself is a working-class residential neighbourhood defined by the club, so stay central and travel out for the match (Adventourely).

Where to drink

Beer runs roughly 4 to 7 euros for a local pint in a city bar, cheaper in the tavernas and near the ground (ItiMaker).

• Ladadika: the old warehouse quarter near the port, wall-to-wall tavernas and bars with live Greek music and easy pre-match atmosphere (ItiMaker).
• Valaoritou: a grid of streets a few blocks inland where the bars get more local and interesting, craft cocktails and late openings, busy from around 10pm (ItiMaker).
• Nikis Avenue and the waterfront: the seafront promenade lined with cafe-bars, good for a daytime beer with a view of the gulf (Discover Greece).
• Sport Cafe, near the ground: a well-known PAOK fans' haunt full of memorabilia with cheap beer (Football Ground Guide).
• Beeratis (The Beer Bar), near the ground: cheap beer and simple food with football on the TV (Football Ground Guide).

To avoid: do not drink in away colours in the streets immediately around Toumba, and steer clear of the Curva Nord end. Rival fans have at times been banned entirely, and police advise arriving on the organised buses rather than in small groups, which can be targeted (Football Ground Guide).

Where to eat

Thessaloniki is a serious food city. The dishes to try are bougatsa, a flaky filo pie with sweet custard or savoury cheese and mince for breakfast; pork or chicken gyros in a pita with chips, tomato and tzatziki; soutzoukakia, spiced meatballs of refugee origin; and the local koulouri sesame bread ring from street stalls (Discover Greece, The City Lane).

• Bougatsa Bantis: family-run bougatsa institution going since 1969, the classic breakfast stop (The City Lane).
• Bougatsa Giannis: sweet and savoury bougatsa steps from the White Tower, handy in the centre (The City Lane).
• Giok Balik: central gyros and souvlaki with plenty of choice, quick and cheap (The City Lane).
• Ladadika tavernas: a whole quarter of sit-down mezze and grill houses near the port for a proper meal before or after (ItiMaker).
• Modiano Market: the restored covered market with meze bars and seafood, good for a relaxed sit-down lunch (Discover Greece).
• Waterfront fish tavernas: mussels (mydia) and fresh seafood are a local speciality along the gulf (Discover Greece).

What to do

• White Tower: the city's signature waterfront landmark, with a museum inside and views over the gulf from the top (Discover Greece).
• Rotunda: a UNESCO-listed Roman rotunda from around 306 AD with early Christian mosaics (Discover Greece).
• Arch of Galerius (Kamara): the standing Roman triumphal arch carved with battle scenes, a natural meeting point in the centre (Discover Greece).
• Ano Poli (Upper Town): the old quarter spared by the 1917 fire, Ottoman houses, Byzantine walls and the Trigonio Tower with the best sunset view (Discover Greece).
• Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki: the Gold of Macedon and finds from the wider region (Discover Greece).
• Aristotelous Square and the waterfront promenade: the grand central square opening onto the seafront, the city's main gathering space (Discover Greece).
• Ladadika: the restored warehouse district, worth a wander by day as well as a drink by night (Adventourely).

Common questions

How do you get from the airport to the stadium?

Thessaloniki "Makedonia" Airport (SKG) is about 13 km southeast of the city. Take the airport bus Line 01X (2.00 euros) from the Arrivals area of Terminal 1 into the centre, then Bus 12 to the "Gipedo PAOK" stop or Bus 14 to "Agia Varvara" for Toumba (SKG Airport, OSETH, Stadium Guide).

Which airport do you fly to for PAOK, and is there a hub?

You fly to Thessaloniki "Makedonia" (SKG), the city's own airport 13 km out. No hub or connecting train is needed: both Manchester and London have direct flights to SKG, so you fly straight in rather than routing through Athens or another airport (Wikipedia, FlightsFrom, easyJet).

Where do away fans sit at Toumba?

Away fans are seated in the southwest corner, opposite the Curva Nord where the main PAOK ultras stand. For the Hearts fixture, visiting fans entered via gate 8 with photo ID matching the ticket and bag searches at the turnstiles (Football Ground Guide, Hearts FC).

What is the away allocation?

For European ties UEFA rules require an away section, typically around 5 percent of capacity, which at 28,703 works out at roughly 1,400 seats (estimate). Domestic Greek away fans are often banned entirely, and even in Europe clubs have declined or been refused an allocation, so confirm before you travel (Football Ground Guide).

What time should you arrive?

For an escorted away trip you gather early at Aristotelous Square to be bussed to the ground under police escort, so aim to be there well before kick-off and expect a wait (Hearts FC). After the match away fans can be held back for up to an hour before the buses leave, so build that into your plans (Hearts FC).

Can you drink alcohol on matchday travel or in the ground?

No. Alcohol is banned on the supporter buses and inside the stadium, and visibly intoxicated fans can be refused travel or evicted. Do your drinking in the city beforehand, not on the escort (Hearts FC).

How much is a beer?

Reckon on 4 to 7 euros for a local beer in a city-centre bar, less in the tavernas and in the fans' bars near the ground such as Sport Cafe and Beeratis (estimate) (ItiMaker, Football Ground Guide).

Is Thessaloniki safe for away fans?

The city itself is a normal, lively second city and fine to enjoy. The caution is football-specific: do not display away colours around Toumba, avoid the Curva Nord end, and travel on the organised buses rather than in small isolated groups, which police warn can be targeted (Football Ground Guide). Follow all police instructions, as Greek police take a firm line (Hearts FC).

Where are the away-friendly areas to base yourself?

Ladadika, the restored warehouse quarter by the port, is the safest bet for eating and drinking, with Valaoritou nearby for later bars and Aristotelous Square as the central meeting point. All are well away from Toumba and easy to reach the airport bus from (Adventourely, ItiMaker).

Does the match ticket include free local transport?

No. Unlike some European cities, a PAOK match ticket does not cover buses or the metro, so buy a 0.60 euro urban ticket or a 2.50 euro day pass separately. The exception is an organised European away trip, where escorted buses to and from the ground are laid on free (OSETH, Hearts FC).

How far is the stadium from the city centre?

Toumba is roughly 3 km southeast of the White Tower, in a residential neighbourhood. It is a short bus or taxi ride rather than a comfortable walk, on Bus 12 from Aristotelous Square or Bus 14 along Egnatias Avenue. The metro does not reach it (Stadium Guide, Football Ground Guide).

Do you need cash, or are cards fine?

Cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops. Carry some euros in cash for taxis, kiosks and small tavernas, as many taxis do not take cards. When paying by card, choose to be billed in euros and decline dynamic currency conversion for the better rate (Chasing the Donkey, Greeking.me).