Sukru Saracoglu Stadium away guide

Fly direct from Manchester or London to Sabiha Gökçen (SAW), the airport on Istanbul's Asian side, then take the M4 metro straight to Kadıköy in about an hour (airportnavi). The stadium is a 15 to 30 minute walk from there. Away fans sit in the North (Kuzey) Stand, gates 35 and 36, allocation around 2,500 (FSA).

Fast facts

Getting there from the UK

Istanbul is one of the rare away days where both Manchester and London fly direct, so the real decision is which of the two airports you use. Sabiha Gökçen (SAW) sits on the Asian side, the same side as Kadıköy and the ground, and the M4 metro runs straight in, so it is the quicker door-to-ground and usually the cheaper option on Pegasus (FlightsFrom), (M4). Istanbul Airport (IST) is on the European side with far more flights and times, but you hand back the saving in a cross-city hop of well over an hour by metro and Marmaray (Rome2Rio).

Costs and times are estimates and vary with dates, kick-off and how far ahead you book. Wherever you fly, if you land at IST allow a good extra hour on top of the SAW figures to reach the Asian side.

From the airport and the European side

If you land at SAW, the M4 metro runs from the airport terminal to Kadıköy in around 50 minutes, roughly every few minutes through the day, for about the price of a single Istanbulkart tap (airportnavi), (M4). It is by far the cheapest and most reliable option; a taxi will cost many times more and can crawl in traffic.

If you are staying on the European side, get across the Bosphorus by ferry from Beşiktaş or Eminönü to Kadıköy, or take the Marmaray rail tunnel under the water (Turkish Football). The ferry is the nicer ride and drops you at the Kadıköy terminal.

Station to ground and walking time

The closest rail station is Söğütlüçeşme on the Marmaray line, about a 15-minute walk from the stadium (Football Ground Guide). Kadıköy, served by the M4 metro and the ferry, is the main hub but sits around a 20 to 30 minute walk to the west (FSA).

From the Kadıköy ferry terminal the route heads down Söğütlü Çeşme road, passes the bull statue at the Altıyol roundabout, then continues on Kuşdili road past Yoğurtçular park to the ground (Turkish Football). Walking is best on match days because traffic around the stadium is heavy (FSA).

Getting around Istanbul

Use an Istanbulkart, the reloadable travel card, for buses, trams, metro, Marmaray and ferries. It charges a set fare per journey and cards can be bought at station booths and machines (Turkish Football). Older guides mention the AKBIL, its predecessor; the current card is the Istanbulkart (FSA). One card can be shared across a group by tapping several times.

Inside the stadium and the away end

Away fans are housed in the GH (upper) and OP (lower) sections, with sections F and N sometimes opened for larger allocations depending on demand (Turkish Football). Some guides describe this as being within the North (Kuzey) Stand, with a typical allocation of around 2,500 tickets (Football Ground Guide).

Enter via gates 35 and 36 (FSA). The away entrance sits directly beside a dual carriageway with no easy pedestrian route, so head for the main stadium approach on foot rather than being dropped by taxi at the away gate (Turkish Football).

Fenerbahçe's home is regarded as one of the most intense atmospheres in European football and a hard place for visiting teams (Football Ground Guide). Expect flares, non-stop chanting and a wall of noise, with the ground filling around an hour before kick-off (Turkish Football). Get in early to take it in.

Where to stay

Kadıköy itself is the easiest base for the match: lively, walkable to the ground and packed with bars and food. For the classic tourist stay near Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, pick Sultanahmet on the European side, or Beyoğlu and Taksim for nightlife, and factor in the ferry or Marmaray across on match day (FSA).

Where to drink

There are no dedicated away bars by the stadium, and the ones nearest the ground are used mainly by Fenerbahçe fans (FSA). The good news is that Kadıköy has grown into one of Istanbul's best nightlife areas, a short walk from the ground (museumpass).

• Ayı Pub: Kadıköy craft-beer cornerstone, big selection, lively crowd, fair prices (museumpass).
• Berlin Platz Pub: German-style beer bar with Turkish craft brews like Gara Guzu on tap (museumpass).
• Karga Bar: long-running bohemian bar over several floors, a Kadıköy institution (museumpass).
• The North Shield: familiar British-style pub chain, an easy option if you want football on the telly (museumpass).
• Eskici Gizli Bahçe: relaxed hidden-garden bar, good for a slower pint before the walk to the ground.

A beer in a Kadıköy bar is cheap by UK standards, roughly £2 to £3 a glass as an estimate, and dearer in the tourist bars around Taksim. Beyoğlu and Taksim on the European side have the Irish and English pubs that draw travelling supporters (FSA). Wherever you drink, do not wear rival colours, Galatasaray above all, in Kadıköy on match day (Turkish Football).

Where to eat

Kadıköy is one of the best places to eat in the whole city, from street stalls to sit-down Anatolian cooking (chasingthedonkey).

• Çiya Sofrası: the famous one, in the Kadıköy market, regional Anatolian dishes and mezes chosen from the counter; go before 8pm as dishes run out (chasingthedonkey).
• Kadıköy fish market (Balık Pazarı): grilled fish, mezes and stalls threading through the market lanes, good for a quick sit-down.
• A balık ekmek (grilled fish in bread) stall: the classic cheap Istanbul feed, best eaten by the water.
• A kebab or pide house near Altıyol: plenty of quick, honest options on the walk in.
• A börek or simit bakery for breakfast: flaky pastry and sesame bread rings for a couple of pounds.

Dishes to try: balık ekmek, a proper Adana or Urfa kebab, lahmacun (thin spiced flatbread), meze spreads, and for pudding katmer, thin dough with pistachio and cream, or künefe (chasingthedonkey).

What to do

Make a couple of days of it. The headline sights are on the European side, an easy ferry across (Rick Steves).

• Hagia Sophia: the sixth-century basilica turned mosque, one of the world's great buildings (Rick Steves).
• Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet): famous for its İznik tiles and six minarets, opposite Hagia Sophia (Rick Steves).
• Topkapı Palace: the Ottoman sultans' palace, with the harem and treasury.
• Grand Bazaar and Spice Market: the covered bazaar runs to thousands of shops; the Spice Market is nearby (Rick Steves).
• Bosphorus ferry or cruise: the best-value sightseeing in the city, a public ferry does most of the job.
• Galata Bridge and Galata Tower: the fishermen's bridge and the climb up the tower for the skyline.
• Kadıköy and Moda: wander your own match-day neighbourhood, the market, the murals and the seafront at Moda.

Common questions

How do I get from the airport to the stadium?

Land at Sabiha Gökçen (SAW) on the Asian side and take the M4 metro straight to Kadıköy in about 50 minutes for the price of one Istanbulkart tap (airportnavi). From Kadıköy it is a 20 to 30 minute walk to the ground, or a short taxi. Söğütlüçeşme station on the Marmaray is closer still, about 15 minutes on foot (Football Ground Guide).

Which airport should I fly into?

Both Manchester and London fly direct to Istanbul, so no hub is needed. Choose Sabiha Gökçen (SAW) over Istanbul Airport (IST) where you can, because SAW is on the Asian side, the same side as Kadıköy and the stadium (KAYAK). IST is on the European side and adds an hour or more across the city (airportnavi).

Is there a direct flight, or do I need a hub?

Istanbul is a direct route from both Manchester and London, roughly 3h 45m to 4h 05m, so there is no fly-to-a-hub-and-train-across detour here (KAYAK). Pegasus and other carriers run frequent services into SAW.

Where do away fans sit?

In the GH (upper) and OP (lower) sections, with F and N sometimes opened for bigger allocations, generally described as the North (Kuzey) Stand (Turkish Football). Enter through gates 35 and 36 (FSA).

What is the away allocation?

Typically around 2,500 tickets (Football Ground Guide). Figures move with the fixture: Manchester United's allocation for their October 2024 visit was reported at around 2,300 to 2,400, disputed and later increased (Football Ground Guide). Check your own club's official matchday information.

What time should I get to the ground?

Aim to be inside well before kick-off. The stadium fills around an hour out and the atmosphere builds early (Turkish Football). Traffic near the ground is heavy and taxis may drop you on the dual carriageway, so allow extra time and plan to walk the last stretch (FSA).

Can I drink inside the stadium?

Turkish grounds do not sell alcohol, so do your drinking beforehand in Kadıköy or across the water in Beyoğlu (FSA). Check your club's official matchday note for the permitted-items list, which none of the standard guides publish in full (Football Ground Guide).

How much is a beer?

Cheap by UK standards. A beer in a Kadıköy bar runs roughly £2 to £3 a glass as an estimate, more in the tourist bars around Taksim (museumpass). Prices in lira move quickly, so treat any figure as a guide.

Is Istanbul safe for away fans?

Broadly yes, with sensible care. The main rule is not to wear rival colours, Galatasaray especially, in Kadıköy on match day (Turkish Football). Keep an eye on your belongings in crowds and around the transport hubs, and follow any police direction on the walk to the ground (FSA).

Where are the away-friendly areas to drink?

Kadıköy has plenty of relaxed bars a short walk from the ground, and Beyoğlu and Taksim on the European side draw travelling supporters with Irish and English pubs (FSA), (museumpass). The bars right beside the stadium are mainly home fans, so drink in the neighbourhood rather than at the gate.

Does the match ticket give free public transport?

No. Unlike some European cities, Istanbul does not include local transport with the match ticket. Buy an Istanbulkart and top it up; it covers the metro, Marmaray, trams, buses and ferries (FSA), (Turkish Football).

How far is the stadium from the city centre?

It depends which centre you mean. From Kadıköy on the Asian side it is a 15 to 30 minute walk (Football Ground Guide). From the tourist heart at Sultanahmet on the European side, allow a ferry or Marmaray crossing plus the walk, roughly 45 minutes to an hour door to door (Turkish Football).

Where should I stay?

Stay in Kadıköy to be walkable to the ground and in the middle of the bars and food. For sightseeing, Sultanahmet puts you next to Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, and Beyoğlu or Taksim suit nightlife, with a ferry or Marmaray across on match day (FSA), (Rick Steves).